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Talia Bartoe

Next Ethnosh Dinner Features Caribbean African Fusion

February 28, 2020 By Talia Bartoe

Theresa and her 2 daughters Samenah and Samyatta. Photo by Bobby Tewksbury.

Not everyone is lucky enough to be able to live out their lifetime dream, but Theresa Barnes gets to do just that. From the time she was a young girl playing chef while watching her family cook, Theresa knew she wanted to own a restaurant. It seemed like an impossible goal, but she never stopped chasing it. The path was a rocky one filled with many detours, but in January 2019 her dream became reality when Eden Spice opened.

Theresa has spent most of her life in the United States, emigrating from Sierra Leone, in west Africa in 1991 with her large, close-knit family. She first joined her family in Philadelphia, who encouraged her to find success with a career in the medical field. Theresa tried to put her passion for cooking on the back burner to pursue an education in nursing since that seemed more secure.

Shortly after, her boyfriend was able to join her in the United States, and they moved to Columbus to be closer to his family. They got married, started a family, and then relocated to Dayton, where her family rejoined her. Once again, she tried to continue her education in the medical field, but her heart just wasn’t in it.

The calling to be in the kitchen was undeniable. “I tried to ignore it, but it just wasn’t going anywhere. It was just in my head.”, she explains. She recounts a time when she attended a loved one’s wedding and found herself in the kitchen helping with food preparation. Everywhere she went she volunteered to cook for people. “Wherever I worked, every time we had a potluck, I would volunteer, I would bring 3 or 4 different dishes.”

Photo by Bobby Tewksbury

Theresa decided she would continue working to help provide for her family while pursuing cooking on the side. Getting some outside opinions of her food was the next step. One day, she cooked two different African inspired dishes and bravely went to various businesses and asked if they would like lunch. The meals were very well received, so she began to bring meals to new places weekly.

Theresa then received a phone call that would change the course of her future, setting things in motion leading to her dream come true. Her cousin provided the food for Horizon Science Academy in Columbus and had been asked to pick up the Dayton and Cincinnati branches. The first person she thought of was Theresa, telling her “If you help me with this, I’ll help you with a restaurant.” Theresa jumped on the opportunity and excelled. In time, her cousin made good on her promise and helped her find the perfect spot to open her restaurant. Theresa felt so grateful for her cousin who believed in her, “Somebody finally listened.”

Photo by Bobby Tewksbury

Located on East Dixie drive in West Carrollton, in what used to be a Subway, Eden Spice was born. “Everything I prayed for from childhood until this point, it came true”. The work was just beginning, and there were many challenges ahead of her, but she knew “You have to work hard to get somewhere…You have to put everything on the table. It’s a big risk.”

Since she had been ready for this day her entire life, she used to think opening the restaurant would be the most difficult part but running it would be much simpler. She laughs as she tells me how mistaken she was on that account. Maintaining a restaurant has been a journey with many surprises, but you won’t find Theresa complaining about any of it. “I have the privilege of living my dream, so I’m ready for any challenge.”

Eden Spice quickly became a family business, with her daughters in the front, while she is in the kitchen. She affectionately calls her daughter the CEO. However, balancing family life while starting a restaurant has been trying. Theresa gives much credit to her family for supporting her and sacrificing much of their time to help at the restaurant and make her dream a reality.

Her family has always played a crucial role in her life. In fact, her inspiration to become a chef can be traced back to her family, “Basically everyone in my family are cooks.” Theresa has many memories of watching her Grandmother, Mother, and Aunties in the kitchen. She brings much of that tradition to her food, and particularly to one specific dish on her menu called “Grandma Tenneh Papaya Stew”. She recalls how this was a dish that her Grandmother would make for her on special occasions. In time, the recipe was passed down to her so she can pass it down to her children. It is a dish that is filled with love and sentiment. She chose to add this cherished family recipe to her menu to show her customers how she feels about them, stating, “This is the place we want you to come and feel like our family. This is home.”

Photo by Bobby Tewksbury

As much as she loves cooking, it has taken some trial and error to figure out how to cater to the American market. Sometimes people are intimidated to try foods that seem foreign to their palate. Eden Spice serves food that blends the flavors of Africa, the Caribbean and America. As you can expect from the name, the food is flavorful and spiced with many seasonings from thyme and garlic, to secret family spice blends. In addition to a well-seasoned meal, you can count on a meal made from scratch, “I want everyone to know that everything is fresh. Nothing processed.” She explains.

After just over a year of being opened, Theresa has learned a lot about being a restaurant owner. On the hard days, she calls her father for comfort, and he reminds her “Most people die with their dream, but you have a chance to fulfill yours. You have lived a complete life just because of this.” She says this always reminds her to be grateful for the entire experience, good and bad. “Eden Spice is my gift from God. Nothing in my background tells me I could be a restaurant owner,” she tearfully shares, “But I am…. Don’t give up on your dreams.”


Ethnosh DAY is heading to Eden Spice!

Join us on Monday, March 16 for a plate full of some great Caribbean / Sierra Leonean cuisine and meet the people who bring all of this goodness to your city.  Vegan and Vegetarian plates are available. Please be sure to select your preferred option on your ticket order form.

There are 2 ticket seatings available for this event, 44 seats per seating, so this will sell out quickly! Order yours online now, just $18 plus a small processing fee.

SEATING 1: 5:30 PM – 6:45 PM
SEATING 2: 7:30 PM – 8:45 PM

Filed Under: Dayton Dining, The Featured Articles Tagged With: Eden Spice, ethnosh, Theresa Barnes

Next Ethnosh Experience Explores Peruvian Cuisine

January 30, 2020 By Talia Bartoe

Chef Margot. Photo by Bobby Tewksbury

Originally a fashion designer hailing from the capital city of Lima, Peru, Margot Blondet has always been passionate about creating beauty. After spending some time in France, she decided to leave fashion behind and return home.

When her best friend opened a culinary school with Le Cordon Bleu, Margot saw it as a golden opportunity to pursue something she enjoyed while spending time with a beloved friend. After studying and working for nearly two years, word got around of her delicious food. People started asking Margot to come to their house to cook, all while she continued to take classes at the culinary institute. Becoming a chef wasn’t her first path, but it became clear this was a world in which she could weave together her love for cooking and making beautiful things.

“It’s a lot of thinking. Every dish needs to be pretty, not just good,” states Margot Blondet, Executive Chef and Owner. She spends the next hour describing to me all that truly goes into designing the perfect experience when dining at Salar. “It’s a theater” she states. No detail is too small.

“Coming to a restaurant is not only about the food, I think it’s about the space, where you’re sitting. It’s about the plates you are being served on. It’s about the lights, music, the service, the smell.” Salar Restaurant and Lounge is located in the ever-popular Oregon District in Dayton. The area is filled with many eateries but one glance inside Salar and you won’t be able to deny the unique elegance and charm.

In 2005 Margot elected to relocate herself and her children to Florida for a much-needed change. She had only planned on staying just a few months, but life had a surprise in store for her. She reconnected with her high school sweetheart, and they picked up their relationship and fell back in love. When he was offered a job in Ohio they moved together and got married.

Margot did some catering for some time when she met the owner of Sidebar. She was asked to help open the restaurant here in Dayton and one in Columbus for him. Although that establishment closed, the owner of the building was so impressed with her work, he offered the space to her if she was interested in opening a restaurant of her own, and that is how Salar was born.

Photo by Bobby Tewksbury

Salar, which means to salt, or season, was opened in 2013. “I love salt. Salt is the essence of life.” Margot points out the many pictures of salt around the restaurant. Most of the pictures were of the salt mines in Peru, which Margot has visited herself. The salt mines are still active, as they have been since the time of the Incans. Chef Blondet has many varieties of salt in her kitchen, all with a distinctive flavor of their own.

When asked what she loves most about cooking she tells me that she is not the most patient person. Delayed gratification is a difficult thing, but with cooking, you get rewarded straight away. She goes on to say, “You feed somebody, and they try it and they like it. You see their face and its immediate.” Feeding someone a good meal is satisfying, “The restaurant came after the food by logic.”

The food at Salar isn’t strictly traditional Peruvian cuisine if there ever was such a thing. Margot describes Peru as “the catalog of the world.” Everything from their culture to their dining has been influenced by immigrants from all over the world. “We have a lot of Chinese immigrants. A lot of Italian immigrants… We were conquered by the Spanish too.” They also have influences from Africa, and the Middle East. In addition to all the cultural influences, Peru is known for its over 90 microclimates. Microclimates are pockets of weather conditions that differ from atmospheric conditions nearby. These variations mean the food available locally is entirely dependent on what part of Peru you reside in. “I haven’t even eaten all the food”, Margot chuckles.

The food at Salar Restaurant and Lounge is all house-made. “If you want French fries, you have to peel the potatoes.” Margot is dedicated to sourcing the best ingredients in the market, as flavor and quality are priorities for her. Even the cocktails are made completely from scratch. “I put a lot of love. This is like my second house”.

Owning a restaurant has not come without adversity. In 2017 Margot was awoken with a phone call letting her know her restaurant had caught fire. “I thought it was a prank at first.” Sadly, this was no joke. This was a very painful process for her, especially because she felt responsible for her employees. It took 9 long months to get the restaurant open again. As difficult as that was for her, Margot’s mindset looking back at the whole experience is impressive. “It was an opportunity, as much as it was a bad thing, in the end, once you pass it, you see it as a good thing because everything is brand new. You build something better.”

Photo by Bobby Tewksbury

 

Through the course of the remodel, Margot gave special attention to every aspect from the Peruvian art adorning the walls to the stunning chandelier hanging in the Pisco bar that Margot put together with her own hands. Pointing to an alluring waterfall feature, she informs me that it’s not just for aesthetics, but also doubles as an air purifier. Everything in the entire space has been chosen with much thought, all intended to cultivate an atmosphere and give the diner much more than a delicious meal. “That’s the whole mentality here that we try to do. From him (pointing to the gentleman greeting the customers at the door) with a big smile to welcome you.”

Margot gives me a tour of the restaurant, and somehow each room is more lovely than the last, ending at the intimate outdoor patio space. I marvel at how she has pieced together each component of the experience together like a puzzle. “The food is just one piece of it. The food is a start. It wouldn’t be possible without all the other elements.”


SALAR RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE

Photo by Bobby Tewksbury

400 East 5th Street
Dayton, OH 45402
(937) 203-3999

NoshUp at Salar  Sun, Feb 23

Get a plate full of some great Peruvian cuisine and meet Salar Chef-Owner Margot Blondet, who will share her story of Lima to Dayton and fashion to food.

SEATINGS & INFO

There are 3 seatings for this event:

Seating 1: 2:00 PM – 3:30 PM
60 ticket capacity
Seating 2: 4:00 PM – 5:30 PM
60 ticket capacity
Seating 3: 6:00 PM – 7:30 PM
60 ticket capacity

Buy your tickets online here. 

Vegan and Vegetarian plates are available. Please be sure to select your preferred option on your ticket order form.

For those interested in adding an adult beverage, Salar will have beer, wine and select Peruvian-influenced cocktails available from their bar.

Filed Under: Dayton Dining, The Featured Articles Tagged With: Chef Margot, ethnosh, peruvian cusine, Salar

Next Stop on the Ethnosh Tour- Prems Chennai Delight

January 2, 2020 By Talia Bartoe

Located in the bustling Washington Park Plaza shopping center off Lyon’s Road in Centerville, you will find Prems Chennai Delight. The restaurant is cozy and inviting, filled with natural light coming from the front wall made of glass. Your mouth will likely already be watering at this point, filled with the smells of warm spices and tomato sauce.

Lunch hours will be over soon, but the restaurant is still filled with happy conversations and eating. I am directed to a small table near the kitchen and kindly offered a mango lassi while I wait for customers to finish being served. The yogurt drink is thick, creamy, and sweet, a perfect afternoon treat.

Everything settled now, I get a chance to sit with Lavanya Premkumar, manager of the front of the house for Prems, and wife of the owner and head chef Premkumar Nagarathinam. Lavanya and Prem are from Chennai, the capital city of Tamil Nadu in South India. Both are trained engineers, Lavanya a software engineer and Prem a mechanical engineer, but that was never enough. Speaking for her husband, “Although he’s an engineer, his passion was towards food.” That is why they opened their first restaurant back home, seating over 90 people, and operating for more than 11 years. It was important for them to have a space that served traditional Southern Indian cuisine. Surprisingly, this was unique for the restaurant scene in Chennai. Lavanya explains the city, with a population of over 7 million residents, has become known for fusion food influenced by the melding of varying cultures residing within the city.

chilli parotta

Lavanya’s career as a software engineer meant that she spent more time traveling than at home. She had contracts globally, including Europe and the U.S., often working in areas of New Jersey and New York. Settling down in the United States was never the intention, but after landing a 5-year contract at Lexis Nexis in Miamisburg, it made the most sense to make herself a home here. Prem would visit on vacation, but eventually, they decided it was best to be together. After a while, running the restaurant in Chennai from another country became more difficult, so they made the tough decision to hand it over to friends.

One thing they couldn’t leave behind was their heart for hospitality. The calling to cook and serve others was still undeniable. Jointly, they opened a personal catering business cooking out of their kitchen with Prem as the sole chef. They catered numerous events for 6 years building a loyal customer base that would return again and again to get a taste of their delicious food. In 2017, Prem opened Prems Chennai Delight, the name selected to pay homage to their roots back in India.

Combo Uttapam

The Miami Valley area has no shortage of Indian eateries, but Prems stands out from the rest because of its South Indian offerings. Lavanya has a personal mission to share with people what Southern Indian food is. “Everybody was thinking about the tikka masala and the samosas. If I talked about Indian (food), they would just say this is what it is.” There is much more to Indian food than just these well-known dishes. At Prems Chennai Delight, they have four exceptionally trained chefs in addition to Prem himself. One is a dedicated curry chef because each curry includes a unique blend of spices. Every curry has a distinctive flavor. It isn’t simply a protein and a creamy tomato sauce, which is more common in North Indian cuisine. In South India, many recipes use blended nuts to achieve a creamy taste. “More dried spices, more garlic and ginger, onions, tomatoes to get the gravy.” Seafood is a popular protein in South India and can be found on the menu, as well as Halal chicken, goat, and plenty of vegetarian options.

Lavanya excuses herself to box up some leftovers for a patron when Prem steps over to greet me. He graciously offers to cook some food for me. Being a lover of Indian food, I tell him to surprise me. He asks me a few questions about my preferences, and heads towards the kitchen, stopping only to give a gentle high five to a young child smiling at him.

Lavanya returns, continuing to explain about their chefs. They have one chef primarily in charge of making dosa, a thin flatbread made from a blend of rice and other ingredients. It is fermented overnight, then cooked quickly, coming out almost crepe-like. Dosa is a staple in South India and is served with most meals. Each chef has an important, yet separate role. “Our primary strength is our chefs”, Lavanya boasts.

Paneer Butter Masala

“We try to keep everything more natural. No canned food or preservatives.” This commitment to freshly-made, cooked-to-order food not only makes a difference in flavor, but it also helps keep things lighter and healthier. This does mean that when you come to dine at Prems, you can expect to wait longer than at some other establishments. Prems is not meant to be a fast-food style Indian restaurant. It takes time to develop the flavors. “I will tell them it will be 30 minutes or sometimes more”, or on a busy afternoon like today, the wait times are longer.

On our table, a young man sets down a basket of warm naan bread, a bowl of rice, and a dark-colored chicken curry adorned with fresh green herbs. Prem had chosen to make me Chettinad chicken curry, which is something I had never tasted. The bold flavors of garlic and chilies mixed with tender chicken pieces make for one delightful and spicy meal.

Chicken 65

Lavanya has a bowl of food herself, as she tells me of a recent article she read, stating that India has over 120,000 known dishes. “Everybody makes different dishes, and we have different weather conditions in our country. Some places it snows, and some places it’s like Florida. So, the grains we grow in each place varies.” Each area is known for its own set of traditional meals. Prems Chennai Delight strives to honor the five states of South India by including customary dishes from each region. “Our elders, especially Grandparents, they always teach us if we keep everybody’s stomach happy, we will also be blessed.” A wonderful sentiment that can be tasted in every bite of the food.


 Prems Chennai Delight

725 Lyons RoadWashington Township, OH 45459
(937) 949-3850
Join the Nosh Up at Prems on Tuesday, January 21.
Seatings are 5:30 and 7:30 PM. Space is limited to 54 per seating. Regular, Vegetarian and Vegan options are available.
Here is link to get tickets: https://ethnosh.org/restaurant/us/oh/dayton/prems-chennai-delight

Filed Under: Dayton Dining, The Featured Articles Tagged With: ethnosh, nosh up, Prems, Prems Chennai Delight

Ethnosh Explores Ethiopian at Nanyea

December 3, 2019 By Talia Bartoe

“When you cook, it’s not by a recipe, it’s by passion.” These words spoken by Sofi Kinde, owner of Nanyea Restaurant & Coffee House, easily summarize why you need to enjoy a meal at this Ethiopian eatery. As you step into the deep red building, located on North Dixie Drive in Dayton, it becomes immediately clear that you are about to embark on a cultural excursion, expanding far past a simple meal. Take in the fragrant smell of burning incense, notice the beautiful art adorning each wall, and let the mellow lighting set the mood. To get the most out of the experience, come with an open mind and a sense of adventure.

Once you get Sofi talking about her love of cooking, it would be impossible to miss how her eyes light up when she talks about creating delicious food. Surprisingly, she never had envisioned herself as a restaurant owner before opening Nanyea Café about three years ago. Growing up in Addis Ababa, the capital city of Ethiopia, Sofi’s only plan was to reunite with her parents. Her mother and father had been selected as green card lottery winners as a part of the Diversity Immigrant Visa Program.

While waiting to join her parents, Sofi was raised by her Grandmother, along with her five brothers and two sisters. Like most of the families in Ethiopia, they were very close. Finally, at the age of 14, she was able to join her parents in the United States.

When asked about the motivation behind her parent’s desire to come to the United States, she told me a good education was a priority for her family, and one of the main reasons why her father had wanted to relocate. “When you live in a third world country, it is a lot different than here. That’s why he always said you need to appreciate what you have here.”

Finding a great school system was much easier here but starting over had its trials. Sofi had been away from her parents since she was very young, she knew almost no English and had never experienced snow. “It was like a new chapter in a book,” she tells me. Determined, she overcame the challenges of learning a new culture and language.

After high school, she moved to Dayton to attend Sinclair Community College for its Business program. Deciding to settle here, she became a student worker and held positions in the disability services office and then in the general office. Sofi connected with the small local Ethiopian community and made Dayton her new home.

In Columbus Sofi’s mother had owned a bakery and then a restaurant herself. Yet, it had never occurred to Sofi that she would one day be a restaurant owner too. When asked if she had always wanted to operate her own, she responded that it had never even crossed her mind.

Maintaining a close-knit community is a deep-rooted value in the Ethiopian culture, which was the true motivator behind it all. Yearning for a social gathering place, friends and family encouraged Sofi to consider opening a coffee shop. Ethiopia is considered the birthplace of coffee, in which it is not viewed as a mere caffeine fix. Instead, it is ceremonial, a time for bonding, deep conversations, and connection.

I was honored when Sofi enthusiastically offered to make us a pot to share. As it was brewing, she explained to me how each coffee ceremony would start by roasting and grinding the beans on the spot. The coffee is prepared in a jebena, a traditional clay pot that is said to infuse notes of flavor into the coffee. Sipping the warm coffee, I taste the deep chocolate notes she had described.

Coffee ceremonies are a rich part of her culture, but Sofi knew that a coffee shop alone was not enough. “Cooking is my passion”, she explains. A smile overtakes her face as she describes the joy she experiences when she cooks, “I always try to make someone’s day.” Knowing her heart was in the kitchen, and with her community behind her, Nanyea Restaurant & Coffee House, named after Grandma Nanyea herself, was born.

The restaurant started in a small building on North Main Street, but after word spread about the flavorful eats Sofi was serving, she needed to relocate to their larger new location just over a year ago. If you look on the menu you will find a large variety offered for meat-eaters and vegetarians alike. Each dish is labeled in English as well as Amharic, the official language of Ethiopia. On the front side of the menu, there is an opportunity for diners to learn a few words of Amharic.

Just about anything on her menu is sure to be delicious if you are willing to be a little adventurous. When you come to Nanyea Café some things will uniquely stand out. Sit down and prepare for a journey. The first thing you should know is that it is traditional in Ethiopia to eat with your hands. That’s right, no forks. Sofi strongly encourages everyone to be open-minded and allow themselves the full cultural experience. It may seem insignificant but feeling the food with your hands and smelling it as you bring it to your mouth is a reminder of connection with your food. “We all work for our food. Food is like a king. You got to give it respect.” Sofi states with admiration.

Get a true taste of Ethiopia by starting with injera, a spongy gluten-free bread. This fermented flatbread is traditionally served at nearly every meal and is said to have many health benefits. If deciding what to order next seems intimidating, Sofi recommends her favorite dish on the menu, Nanyea’s Tibs. It consists of beef cubes sautéed with her secret seasoning blend, onions, tomato, and Ethiopian butter—known as kibe. This dish holds more than an abundance of flavor, it has the honor of being the first and only dish, for a while, that Sofi served at her brand-new restaurant. It is the meal that helped her grow into a successful business.


NANYEA RESTAURANT COFFEE HOUSE & BAR

6129 North Dixie Drive
Dayton, OH 45414
(937) 396-4013

Ethnosh DAY is heading to Nanyea Restaurant and Coffee House!

We are excited to be partnering with Nanyea for our December NoshUp! This event will be a culinary adventure, Ethiopian-style. Here are a few things know about Ethiopian meal customs:

  1. Traditional Ethiopian food is eaten with the hands; this is done by tearing off a piece of injera (Ethiopian flatbread), using it to grab some food, and putting it directly in your mouth.
  2. Traditional meals are eaten from a communal plate, but you should not reach all the way across to the other side to grab food; eat what is close to you.
  3. It is polite to eat with your right hand – the left is considered unclean and therefore you should avoid using it if you can.
  4. There will always be a way to wash your hands before and after the meal.

Join us on Sunday, December 15 for a plate full of some great Ethiopian cuisine and meet the family and staff who bring all of this goodness to your city.

There are 3 seatings ( each can seat 48 guests) for this event:

Lunch Seating: 1:30 PM – 3:00 PM
Seating 1: 4:00 PM – 5:30 PM
Seating 2: 6:30 PM – 8:00 PM

Vegan and Vegetarian plates are available. Please be sure to select your preferred option on your ticket order form.

Ethiopian coffee will be available for $2. Nanyea also offers a full bar. Note that Ethiopian coffee and alcoholic beverages are not included in the ticket price.

WHEN

Sunday – December 15, 2019

SEATINGS
Lunch Seating: 1:30 PM – 3:00 PM
Seating 1: 4:00 PM – 5:30 PM
Seating 2: 6:30 PM – 8:00 PM

$18.00 + a small processing fee

WHERE
Nanyea Restaurant and Coffee House
6129 North Dixie Drive
Dayton, OH 45414
STILL HAVE QUESTIONS?

Email [email protected] for more info.

 

Filed Under: Dayton Dining, The Featured Articles

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