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Fatbacks Barbecue

BBQ Judge Bryan Suddith on BBQ

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I’ve written a lot about BBQ.

So today I write about it again. Today is National BBQ Day and my friends at the Kansas City Barbecue Society have been reminding me that May is National BBQ Month. I do love BBQ. I was just in South Carolina in March for bbq, judged a competition in Atlanta in April, judged a competition in Indianapolis later in April, and was in Austin last weekend eating bbq for fun.

In June I am judging contests in Ohio, cooking in a contest in Kentucky and judging another contest in Indiana. I spend a lot of time traveling to eat, cook and judge great bbq.

It doesn’t take a lot of of anything to make great barbecue. Just meat, fire, and time.  Three little things that when done right produces a great product. The best bite of barbecue I have ever had didn’t require electricity. Just a guy and a fire and long long hours tending to both.

Ribs. Brisket. Sausage and a beef rib from Austin’s La Barbecue.

Here are four things I have learned over the last 8 years traveling, eating, judging and studying American Barbecue.

First: The debate of Kansas City vs. Texas. Which is better? They are both crazy good. It’s a style difference. It’s like comparing deep dish pizza with a slice of thin New York City pizza. Both good. Not the same. All the major BBQ regions offer something unique about their region. BBQ is personal like that. It’s built on tradition and proteins that are local. Texas = Beef. Lots of it. Carolinas = Pork lots of it. My tip, don’t go to Greeneville South Carolina or Memphis looking for Brisket.

Aaron Franklin of Franklin BBQ with Bryan in Austin, TX

Second: Behind every good plate of barbecue is a family and that family has a story and barbecue is how they share that story. In South Carolina I ate at Mike and Jeff’s BBQ. Mike’s mom was the server, Mike’s sister was at the register and Mike was tending the coals at the smoker out front. Louie Mueller’s in Taylor Texas is operated by Wayne Mueller, grandson of Louie. His sister operates one of the hippest BBQ shops in Austin, La Barbecue.

SLAPS BBQ in Kansas City is run by brothers Joe and Mike and their mom is often in the store working the line. Payne’s in Memphis is still run by Flora Payne with her son and daughter at her side. She is still chopping pork at the lunch rush.

Third: BBQ is communal. It’s meant to be shared and eaten as a group. That’s my favorite. Order it all and share it family style. It’s a slow meal. It takes hours to prepare and there is no need to hurry to eat it.

Fourth: BBQ has a real legal definition. The United States Code of Federal Regulations defines BBQ, such as product labeled “Beef Barbecue” or “Barbecued Pork,” shall be cooked by the direct action of dry heat resulting from the burning of hard wood or the hot coals therefrom for a sufficient period to assume the usual characteristics of a barbecued article, which include the formation of a brown crust on the surface and the rendering of surface fat. The product may be basted with a sauce during the cooking process. The weight of barbecued meat shall not exceed 70 percent of the weight of the fresh uncooked meat.

So technically, if there isn’t a wood fire resulting in smoke or hot coals, it isn’t barbecue.

Here are the questions I am asked the most when people learn I have traveled a bit for some great barbecue:

Bryan, what’s your favorite in Texas, Memphis or Kansas City?

Texas: Must visits, Louie Mueller in Taylor Texas, Smitty’s in Lockhart, both Valentina’s and Interstellar in Austin. Snows in Lexington is worth it as well. (I plan to spend time in Houston soon).

Bryan (far right) with friends and Interstellar BBQ pitmaster Warren McDonald (back row) outside of Interstellar BBQ. Texas Monthly’s #2 ranked Texas BBQ joint in Austin.

Kansas City: My favorite is SLAPs and Q39. Please visit Kansas City Joes and Arthur Bryant’s for the experience.

Memphis: Payne’s is a must as is the Bar B Que Shop (try the spaghetti).

Bryan, what’s your favorite BBQ in Dayton?

I love what Curtis  is doing at Fatbacks BBQ and his brisket is full of flavor and is my favorite in town.

Flyby BBQ

It is hard to beat the ribs at Flyby BBQ at the Fairfield mall.

I have been so impressed by what Warped Wing Springboro is creating out of their Ole Hickory smoker and the pulled pork nachos and pork belly sliders are better than Dayton deserves.

With that said, I have had great BBQ at Oinka Doodle Moo, City Barbecue (same smoker as Warped Wing), Hickory River in Tipp City, Adam’s Rib in Eaton, Combs in Middletown, Just Q In in Cincy, Pickles and Bones in Milford, and many many more. Those three up top are just my favorites here in Dayton.

So go. Celebrate National BBQ day and find some barbecue. Find a spot you like and support your local Pitmaster.

Fatbacks 2.0

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No one is more excited about the return Fatbacks Barbeque than me. For more than five years this little spot on Linden Avenue has been my favorite go-to barbecue spot. Today would’ve been the eighth anniversary of the restaurant formally owned and operated by Larry “Bub” Britton.

There has been a passing of the keys (and pit) to the new proprietor Curtis Fackler. Curtis is a friend and former student of Bub’s. Curtis is a New Carlisle native who has big plans for Fatbacks while keeping the charm and menu the same as it was under Bub’s ownership.

Curtis took the keys it recently and I had a chance to sit down with him to  talk BBQ and specifically the future of Fatbacks.

Curtis told me he has already began to make some tech upgrades including new point of sale system that will allow online ordering and is investigating adding Uber Eats to increase local awareness of this locally known and adored bbq spot.

Curtis said there are no changes planned for the menu and mentioned that he is looking into more local sources for the beef and pork. Curtis is also coaxing as many of the staff back as possible. The longtime pitmaster has already agreed to return. That kind of knowledge and skill isn’t easy to come by.


Curtis lives just blocks away from the Linden Ave address where the restaurant operates and is home base for the popular Fatbacks Catering business.

During our chat I learned that the he and his partners are waiting on final health department inspections and certifications. Red tape can take time but the kitchen and smoker are ready to go on short notice. Under Larry’s coaching they have started ordering food and supplies for the upcoming grand re-opening.

Curtis Fackler

I asked Curtis if folks will be seeing Bub around the shop in the coming weeks. He said that Bub is committed to a successful hand off and will be around for an undetermined amount of time but will always have a seat at FatBacks.

I did learn a few more facts about the owner and what we can expect in 2021.

1) He’s a big Red’s fan and we may see some sports memorabilia among the Pig Hall of Fame collection that adorns the walls

2) He’s working to finishing the Fatbacks food truck that Bub started (he estimated its 90% ready)

3) Pending approval from the health department we can expect to be eating brisket, ribs and those famous pig pops in Mid-March.

Happy 8th Anniversary to Fatbacks and best wishes for a great year ahead.

Quest For The Best BBQ

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BBQ is personal. BBQ is communal. BBQ at its core is primal. Meat slowed cooked over smoke. Simple. But not easy to do correctly.

 

BBQ is the only food that has a definition codified in Federal Law. Title 9 of The Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) defines it this way in Chapter III, Subchapter A, Part 319, Subpart C, Section 319.80

 

“Barbecued meats, such as product labeled “Beef Barbecue” or “Barbecued Pork,” shall be cooked by the direct action of dry heat resulting from the burning of hard wood or the hot coals therefrom for a sufficient period to assume the usual characteristics of a barbecued article, which include the formation of a brown crust on the surface and the rendering of surface fat. The product may be basted with a sauce during the cooking process. The weight of barbecued meat shall not exceed 70 percent of the weight of the fresh uncooked meat.”

 

I love BBQ and have traveled thousands of miles eating the best of Memphis, Alabama, St. Louis and Kansas City. I have learned a few things about BBQ. It is intensely personal. Whenever a chef or pitmaster spends 8, 10 or even 15 hours preparing a cut of pork or beef, you are eating the real fruit of labor. The rub, the mop, the sauce, all come from family recipes tested and tasted and tweaked over time.

 

BBQ is best enjoyed with family. Splitting plates. Telling stories. Savoring time around the table. Slow. Just like the preparation.
I’ve done some research and found that you don’t have to drive far for authentic BBQ. We have some great ‘cue right here in Dayton Ohio. Let me tell you about them. These are my favorites and if you like slow cooked smoky meat, they will be yours too. There are another 1/2 dozen places to get bbq in Dayton (that doesn’t count some remarkable food trucks). These folks are smoking ribs, brisket, pork, chicken and sausage over a real fire with real smoke. That’s the standard.

 

Hickory River BBQ (Regional Chain 6 locations Illinois and Ohio)
135 S Garber Dr, Tipp City, OH 45371
Hickory River in Tipp is worth the drive. Its a big family place and reminded me of the bigger Kansas City joints I have visited in recent years. By far the friendliest of my visits. My son and I split 4 ribs, brisket, a pulled pork sandwich and a 1/4 pound of the smoked sausage with two sides and drinks for under $30 dollars. My favorites here were the ribs and sausage. The pulled pork had a good amount of bark full of smokey flavor. My son says the mac and cheese was as good as he ever had. The slaw was fresh and made in-house.
Did I mention the prices and friendliness? I can’t wait to get back there. Tuesday’s are buck a bone rib nights.
Gotta Try: Smoked Sausage

 

1101 W Third St, Dayton, OH 45402
Texas Brisket and Texas attitude. By far the best brisket I have had in Ohio. Peppery, slow cooked, sliced right. Smoke ring and it had a good pull to it. Tender, but not pot roast falling apart. The sauce is kept behind the counter, ask for samples of both offerings. The sausage was great and the pulled pork sandwich was full of smoke and tender. Careful ordering the menu here. It get’s pricey fast. Pulled pork, sausage and a portion of brisket with two sides set me back almost $40 bucks. Ribs are sold by the slab and 1/2 slab only so we didn’t get to try them. Wings need to be ordered ahead by 20-30 minutes. Drink offerings are limited but beer is an option.
Gotta Try: Brisket

 

1334 Linden Ave, Dayton, OH 45410
Fatbacks is my go-to. It’s set up like the smaller joints in Memphis, which I love. His brisket is always tender and the best pulled pork is found here. His ribs have a sweet finish which I prefer. He also has a thing he calls a pig pop. It is the lower shank smoked slow and covered in a sweet sauce that almost candies on the rendered skin. Get one. No. Get two. Sides here are always great, from greens to slaw to beans.
PS. This guy is building smokers like the pros use when he isn’t feeding lunch to locals on Linden Ave.
Gotta Try: Pig Pop

 

OinkADoodleMoo (4 locations and WPAFB)
912 E Dorothy Ln, Dayton, OH 45419
I’d put Oink’s ribs against anyone in Dayton. I wish I could figure out the rub he uses there. The founders of Oink studied BBQ in Kansas City brought their newfangled smoking technology back home to Dayton and we benefit from that. Their ribs are never overcooked and always have a great smoke. I find their brisket to be a bit overdone and falling apart. Still tasty on a bun though! Wings. Get the wings. Smoked tender and soft and full of flavor. Not like your normal bar wings. The corn pudding should be a mandatory side. Brisket, wings, pulled pork and a few ribs and sides under $30 again. Perfect for a date or father/kid outing. Oink is also making burnt ends. A Kansas City invention.
Gotta Try: Ribs and get a side of the smoke potatoes

 

 

Combs BBQ Central
2223 Central Ave, Middletown, OH 45044
I really can’t say enough about this place. It’s out of range for lunch during the week but it quickly becoming my favorite on Saturday’s.
This laid-back spot is part of Downtown Middletown’s rebirth. These ribs are legit, always cooked perfect and the pulled pork has texture, great flavor and that spicy bark you want in every bite. Brisket doesn’t happen every day. Recently I was there when they had smoked an entire pot roast. Delicious on a bun with a touch of sauce. Prices are good and the service is tops and fast.
Gotta Try: Pulled Pork and Ribs
1001 S Main St, Englewood, OH 45322
Brisket. Check. Ribs. Check. Pulled pork. Check. The best wings in Dayton? Yes. You’ve got my word on it. They smoke wings in a marinade (a wet smoke) then cool them and deep fry them when you order. If you’ve never had them, get up there today. Crunchy outside with a soft smoky interior the wing is in a class all its own. The team of Company 7 is pushing the envelope with lunch specials and a drive-thru. That’s right. A bbq sandwich from a drive-thru. I’ve not timed it from Kettering, but I am considering it.
Bonus at Company 7…beer. More than 20 craft beers in cans and bottles and always a few Company 7 Brews on tap.
Gotta Try: Smoked Wings
I’m always looking for a new spot for great BBQ!  Tell us where yourgo-too place is for great ribs, brisket, pulled pork or barbecued chicken.
Speaking of BBQ- MostMetro.com and Bryan Suddith, a certified Kansas City Barbeque Society Judge are teaming up for a Dayton BBQ Tour! 
Join us this coming Saturday, Aug 4th at 1pm as we board the 937 Party Bus and we’ll visit OinkADoodle Moo, Fat Backs and Texas Beef and Cattle Company for this mobile meat feast.  We’ll make sure you get plenty to eat and  in between spots we’ll share a few brews on the bus and talk BBQ.  This tour  will be limited to just 12 people. $60 covers the bus transportation, beers and BBQ. Get your ticket here.