vermouth

Vermouth: From Medicine to Mixology

November 9, 2016 By Brian Petro

Roman wormwood, vermouth’s humble beginnings.

Combing through history, you will see one fact common to most liquors: they started off as medicine. Beer and wine had other uses. They were easier to make and used for everything from paying workers to surviving fasts to having something to drink that would not kill you. Before we started to dig into the science of diseases, doctors would prescribe methods that we would now call alternative medicine. Anything from draining humours through leeches to mixing a variety of herbs into a liquid and drinking it. One of the earliest herbs used was wormwood, based on the belief that it was effective in fighting stomach ailments.

The wormwood-infused wine would be consumed after a meal to calm the stomach and aid in digestion. This technique was used in Europe as early as 400 BC and in some cultures earlier than that. As the wine became popular in the 16^th century, those creating it added other herbs and spices to take the horribly bitter edge off the wormwood. In Germany, this bitter root was called Wermut. When the French and Italians took hold of it, they just Romanticized the word, calling the new batch of fortified and aromatized wines “vermouth.”

Modern vermouth became popular around the end of the 18^th century when Antonio Benedetto Carpano introduced it to the market. It quickly became a darling with the courts in the area and started to spread to the rest of the country. Not too far away, in southern France, dry vermouth was gaining steam. The French kept the botanical punch that the Italians had built into the wine, but dialed the sugar content back considerably. This is what gives dry vermouth its herbal punch. The Italians also have a version of a white, or blanco, vermouth that is a sweeter version of the French dry. It does not have less of an herbal kick; it has more sugar to hide it. Traditionally, these were the three styles of vermouth found in any liquor store. With the boom we see in craft cocktails, manufacturers are experimenting with other wines and herbs to offer new flavor profiles. There are rosé and orange wine-based vermouths now that utilize other botanicals.

Gaze upon this collection of Martini vermouths…

For over 100 years, vermouth had a starring role in the cocktails the world enjoyed. Two of the classics, the Manhattan and the Martini, were based on the herbal flavors they brought to rye whiskey and gin, respectively. Flipping through classic recipe books, you can see that after the tremendous impact vermouth had when it arrived in the United States in the mid-19^th century, it started to wane. The amount of vermouth became smaller and smaller until we settled on the 3:1 or 5:1 proportions you may see in bars. Venues that focus more on the classics will put the ratio closer to 2:1 spirit to vermouth, and may even offer the Martinez. The Martinez is one of the few vintage cocktails you will find where the vermouth, not the spirit, is the star in the glass. Two parts vermouth to one part gin (or 1:1, or 1.5:1, whichever proportion the bartender assures you is the original) is what you will find, with some maraschino liqueur to balance out the herbal quality.

Martinez

2 oz. sweet vermouth
1 oz. Old Tom gin (Ransom is an excellent choice)
1 tsp. maraschino liqueur
2 ds. Bitters (Boker’s is in the original, but Angostura works well)

Glass: Cocktail
Ice: None
Garnish: Lemon zest

Pour all of the ingredients into a mixing glass over ice. Stir until the cocktail is well chilled, then strain into the glass. Twist the zest over the cocktail then add it to the glass.

Martinez cocktail (credit: Ann Larie Valentine)

Any trace amounts of vermouth you were going to find in cocktails were wiped clean when Prohibition covered the land. Liquors that could not be faked were purged, lost in America for decades. When we finally returned to the business of drinking, vodka was becoming the spirit of choice. Vermouth has a strong flavor, and vodka has little. Vodka martinis, now sporting olives, forcefully pushed dry vermouth to the back of the bar shelf. And while some of the war vets were still big on the Manhattan, no one wanted to drink what their parents drank. Sweet vermouth soon found itself collecting dust as well, watching rum take over the brown liquor spot as vodka took over for clear liquor. The 1970’s and 80’s were dominated by sweet cocktails, balanced slightly by citrus juices. Unless grandpa was bellying up to the bar, vermouth was on the sidelines with the bitters.

The craft cocktail boom has invigorated the industry. From just a few bottles of Martini and Rossi on the shelf to an ever-widening array of flavors, vermouth is back. Before you run out and add that amazing collection to your liquor shelf, keep in mind that vermouth has to be at least 75% wine. That means an open bottle is only going to be good for up to four weeks on your liquor shelf. You can extend that through refrigeration, but not by much. Many brands offer smaller bottles to purchase. Grab one of those if it is just for you around the house. Or considering adding vermouth as part of your dinner plans to either get the stomach ready or calm it down after the meal. If the bottle lasts long enough to go a little south, you can add it to recipes that call for wine. Another requirement of vermouth is that it has wormwood as part of the recipe, best known as a dominant flavor in absinthe. That flavor heightens when you cook with it. You can put it in some cocktails to enjoy with your meal as well. Beyond the traditional Manhattan (sweet vermouth) and Gin Martini (dry vermouth), there is a wide array of cocktails that call for this fortified, aromatized wine.

Negroni

1 oz. gin
1 oz. Campari
1 oz. sweet Vermouth

Glass: Cocktail or Coupe
Ice: None
Garnish: Orange Zest

Pour all of the ingredients into a mixing glass. Stir, then strain into the cocktail glass. Twist the orange zest over the cocktail, then add to the glass. Alternatively, you can pour all of the ingredients over cubed ice (larger cubes work best), stir, then serve.

A Negroni on the rocks. (credit: Geoff Peters)

The Negroni is a vintage cocktail from Italy. The rumor is that Count Negroni, after an extended stay in America, was traveling the Italian countryside. When he came to his usual bar for his usual drink, an Americano, he asked to replace the soda water with gin. The concoction worked and had been the springboard for countless variations. Substitute the gin with rye whiskey, and you have a Boulevardier. Exchange the gin with champagne for a Negroni Sbagliato. The possibilities are endless.

Vieux Carré

.75 oz Rye Whiskey
.75 oz Cognac
.75 oz sweet Vermouth
1 tsp Bénédictine
2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters
2 dashes Angostura bitters

Glass: Old Fashioned
Ice: Cubed
Garnish: Cherry OR Lemon Zest

Pour all of the ingredients into a mixing glass over ice. Stir, then strain into the Old Fashioned glass over fresh ice. Garnish with either the cherry or the lemon zest. Both, if you want to.

Built in New Orleans in the post-Prohibition era, it is a celebration of the vibrant cocktail culture that developed there. It is well balanced and a delight to drink. A bottle of Bénédictine herbal liqueur is a versatile addition to any home bar.

Scofflaw

2 oz. Bourbon or rye whiskey
1 oz. Dry vermouth
.25 oz. Fresh lemon juice
.5 oz. Grenadine
2 dashes Orange bitters

Glass: Cocktail
Ice: None
Garnish: Orange Zest

Pour all of the ingredients into a mixing tin over ice. Shake well for 20 – 30 seconds, then strain into the cocktail glass. Twist the orange twist over the cocktail and add to the glass.

This Prohibition cocktail is appropriately named. Developed at Harry’s Bar in Paris in the 1920’s, it reaches for the traditional French dry vermouth instead of the sweet usually found in whiskey cocktails. There is also some debate as to the use of lemon or lime juice. The original recipe calls for lemon juice, and I will back that one. But experiment as you like.

With the resurgence of vermouth over the last few years, the options for bartenders have expanded. From Dolin to Noilly Pratt to Carpano, we have come a long way from just the bottles of Martini and Rossi on the shelf. Grab a bottle and take a sip before you start adding it to a cocktail. You may like what you taste!

Evolution of an Icon – National Martini Day

June 19, 2015 By Brian Petro

The cocktail. The myth. The legend.

The martini is an iconic drink. So iconic, in fact, that the glass it is served in with an olive is an almost universal symbol of a cocktail. June 19^th every year is National Martini Day, one day we get to celebrate this legend and all of the varieties it has spawned. Starting with Mae West and James Thurber, to James Bond to Sex in the City, martinis in all their various forms have been embraced by pop culture as elegance in a glass. Maybe it is the simplicity of the ingredients. Maybe it is the balance of sweet and strong ingredients. Maybe it is the flexibility of the cocktail over the ages. Whatever the reason, more has been written and said about the martini than almost any other cocktail in history. And it all started in a little town in California.

The Golden (Rush) Age

The grandparents of the martini are just as distinguished as the cocktail itself. The Manhattan, well known to whiskey enthusiasts, is thought to be one of the original influencers on the cocktail. The use of vermouths and other aperitifs in cocktails was well established by the mid-nineteenth century. The other big influencer on the creation of the martini is the Martinez, a cocktail created in California during the Gold Rush. There are many stories told about how the Martinez was created, but the most common one involves a miner stopping at a bar in Martinez, CA and requesting that the bartender make him something special. Sometimes that bartender is the iconic Jerry Thomas, sometimes it is not. The bartender then created the cocktail as listed below:

The Martinez utilized sweet vermouth and gin, but it soon evolved.

The Martinez

1.5 oz. gin
1.5 oz. sweet vermouth
¼ oz. Maraschino liqueur (some recipes call for orange curacao)
2-3 dashes of orange bitters
Garnish: Lemon Peel

Pour all of the ingredients over ice into a glass. Stir for 20 seconds until the cocktail is chilled; strain the ingredients into a martini glass. Twist the lemon peel over the cocktail then add to the drink.

Even the glass the martini is served is in designed for the enjoyment of the libation. The glass is stemmed so you can hold it away from the drink, keeping it is chilled as long as possible. In all martinis, the water you get from stirring or shaking is important to the enjoyment of the cocktail. It softens the gin and smooths out any rough edges. The reputation of this cocktail spread from California to the rest of the country, and the rest of the country had something to say about how the cocktail was made.

The Martini Dries Out

This is as close as the vermouth should come to your cocktail.

The first place the martini recipe was actually written down was in 1882 by Harry Johnson in his Bartender’s Manual. It is much different than the one we would recognize today, adding gum syrup for some sweetness and thickness and with liquor proportions like the Martinez. As the 19^th century turned into the 20^th, dry vermouth, or French, vermouth was becoming more and more popular in bars on the east coast. It even found its way into the martini, immediately changing the complexion of the cocktail. Originally a martini with dry vermouth was known as a Dry Martini, but the dry was dropped as dry vermouth became the go to aperitif for the cocktail. As the nation got closer and closer to Prohibition, the martini became drier and simpler, losing sweeteners and having the ratio of gin to vermouth drop. It eventually settled to a 3 to 5 parts gin to one part vermouth ratio. In The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, author David Embury even went as far as to insist the perfect ration is seven part gin to one part vermouth. A dry martini indeed.

The Dry Martini

2 ½ oz. gin
½ oz. dry vermouth
2-3 dashes orange bitters

Pour all of the ingredients over ice into a glass. Stir for 20 seconds until the cocktail is chilled; strain the ingredients into a martini glass. You may choose to add an olive or a twisted lemon peel for a garnish.

It was only called a Dry Martini at the time to distinguish it from its sweet vermouth based cousin. Time and other circumstances kept pulling the vermouth out of the cocktail.

Cocktails during Prohibition were not complicated at all. “Pour some liquor in a glass and drink” is a pretty accurate description of most drinks in the United States during this period. All of the great bartenders fled overseas and were creating new libations in Europe and the Caribbean. The ones still in the states were trying not to get caught serving cocktails, so ingredients like vermouth became novelties. Martinis became a little more than some chilled gin in a glass, and that is the way many people liked it. Even after Prohibition ended, the dryness of the martini stayed. Many luminaries of the time insisted the only way to drink a martini was to leave out the vermouth all together and just drink chilled gin in a martini glass. Maybe have a bottle of vermouth in the room or toast in the direction of France as you enjoyed your drink. This was also a time bartenders would use atomizers with vermouth or just wash the glass with vermouth to add a hint of the flavor, but not much of one. It was during this era that the dryness of the martini referred to a lack of vermouth as opposed to using different vermouth. This changed with the introduction of a new spirit to the American palate: vodka.

Leaving us Breathless

A vintage 1953 Smirnoff ad. It even advocates the Vodka Martini.

Vodka is a relative newcomer to the U.S. cocktail menu. It arrived on the shores in the 1950’s, and became hugely popular with the “Leaves You Breathless” campaign used by Smirnoff. One of the advantages vodka had over gin was the fact that after a three martini lunch, you did not carry a piney smell around for the rest of the afternoon. Since the art of bartending was just still filtering back into the United States, most bartenders substituted gin with vodka in cocktails as experiments. One of those was the martini, which for some reason was then christened the Kangaroo.

The Kangaroo

2 oz. vodka
1 oz. dry vermouth
Garnish: Lemon Peel

Many bars today don’t even add the vermouth to a vodka martini. There is no other flavor to balance out the cocktail, so instead of overwhelming the vodka, they just leave it out. Vodka opened a door for other experimentation. Since it is odorless and flavorless, it is a blank canvas on which to work. This gave the men and women behind the bar more room to play with flavor and other ingredients, straining them into a martini glass, and called the concoction some form of martini. This led to a little darker era for the martini purists.

Appletinis, Chocolate Martinis, and Questionable Martini Creations

It could be argued that the Cosmopolitan, developed in the 1970’s but not reaching peak popularity until the 90’s, was the precursor to the flood of flavored martinis. It could also be argued the Cosmopolitan was the precursor to the flavored vodka boom, but that is a different article. Other cocktail historians point to the French Martini at Pravda in the late 1990’s as the flash point for flavored martinis.

So…this era happened…

French Martini

1 oz. vodka
1 oz. Chambord (any fine raspberry liqueur will do)
2 oz. pineapple juice

Pour the ingredients into a mixing tin over ice. Shake vigorously for 10 seconds; strain into a martini glass.

This is a delicious cocktail, but is it a martini? Purists (myself included) would say no, that this is a delicious cocktail in a martini glass. A martini is gin (or vodka) and vermouth in a martini glass. The blank canvas expanded to include Lemon Drop Martinis, Appletinis, Cherry Cheesecake Martinis, Espresso Martinis, and all other manner of concoctions and variations. Menus became full of these cocktails, and for a while it was all the rage. Something in the bar community shifted in the early 2000’s, and classic cocktails fought their way back to the menu. This meant that the original martini, full of gin and vermouth and old world flavor, returned to menus as an option to the other martinis that were offered. You would be hard pressed to find a White Chocolate Martini in a craft cocktail bar these days. Though if you asked nicely, I am sure they would be able to make you one.

No matter how you enjoy your martini, June 19^th, National Martini Day, is a perfect day to, as Mae West put it, “slip into a dry martini”. Plenty of vermouth or no vermouth, flavored or not, you have many options to explore in one day. Just pace yourself. There is still a whole weekend of martini drinking to get through, and you may want to have one with dad on Father’s Day. Cheers!