whisky | Dayton937

The staff at The Century with their 2017 Summer cocktail menu.

The list of reasons that the Century Bar is one of the best bourbon bars in the country is a long one. It starts with the well-curated whiskey collection, brought together by the staff over the years. Everything from daily sippers to rare bottles saved for special occasions. Once that was assembled, they began a cocktail program that is one of the best in the city. Not only are they making specialty cocktails, they are making the syrups, shrubs, and bitters that go in it. They are doing the research to revive some of the classic, lesser known libations and creating some modern delights. They use local ingredients and spirits when they are able, building an impressive library of recipes. Even the atmosphere feels like you have stepped out of Dayton and into a little pocket where time stopped just before Prohibition. The back bar is over 150 years old, and has been sitting in that building for the last eighty years.

The most important differentiator, however, is the staff. Joe Head, co-owner of this fine establishment, has established a system that makes sure the bartenders employed there know more about liquor and cocktails than anyone walking through that door. They can tell you the history of any of the bottles they grab off that elegant back bar, right down to the best way to enjoy it. It is possible they can discuss the actual tree the barrel was made from. One of these bartenders, Jerrod Claytor, knows as much as anyone else about what is going on behind that bar.

Jerrod Claytor of The Century Bar

Jerrod, like many bartenders, followed a wandering path to get to be in one of the more coveted bartender gigs in Dayton. He started off working towards a job in the finance sector, filled with its own unique perils. When he discovered that was not the right fit for him, he started to explore other career options in the Miami Valley. When the Century made its transition from a dive bar to a bourbon house, Jerrod was one of the first people they brought in to help with their expanded hours and new direction. He has been part of this new chapter since almost day one, and it looks like he is going to be there for a long time.

How did you get into bartending?

I started serving and bartending 15 years ago after college. Frankly, it gave me an opportunity to meet lots of people, make fair money, and have the freedom to pursue other endeavors. It wasn’t, yet, a career choice. The more experienced I gained (at one point I worked at four locations) and more responsibilities I was given, I realized this path was apt for me and my personality. I now feel both incredibly fortunate and comfortable to be working alongside such professional people who’ve walked this path with me. Not too many people can say they work with their family and best friends in a nationally recognized bar.

What is your favorite drink to make?

Well-executed classics are great. I am always happy making a simple old-fashioned. It’s a no-fail and for some, a gateway to bourbon and whiskey (my love). I make Manhattans mostly at home.

Which drink makes you internally cringe?

I honestly love cocktails and drink just about anything myself, so I don’t discriminate. I suppose I may internally roll my eyes when folks still order chilled shots or shot backs. Just seems unnecessary.

In his favorite environment with his favorite spirits.

Do you have a favorite spirit you like to work with?

Aside from bourbon and whiskey, I really find cognacs, brandies, and their variations highly versatile and tasty.

When you go out for a drink in Dayton, where is your favorite place to go?

Breweries, restaurants, etc. I really enjoy quiet afternoons on days off at small family bars.

Who is the most famous person you have served?

I served Arlo Guthrie once. I thought that was pretty cool. I had a room full of astronauts including every one of the first moon-landers. I still get goosebumps when I think of that. Surprisingly, the nicest celebrities I’ve served were Donahue and Arnold Palmer.

What do you do when you are not bartending?

Relaxing, cooking, backpacking, cycling, pseudo art projects, and of course, drinking.

What are your favorite trends from the last year?

The emergence of more high-end rums, mezcals, and the continuing validity of handmade or fresh ingredients in bars and restaurants.

Sometimes he travels outside of the bar…

What trends do you see coming to Dayton over the next six months?

More availability of unique whiskey blend and finishes, along with Eurasian malts (Americans curiosity is swiftly fueling these).

What advice do you want to give bartenders just getting into the business?

Be patient, pay your dues, and work hard. Never sit on your hands, keep your mind open and continually learn. Of course, take pride in your work. Oh, don’t make it snooty either.

What do you love most about Dayton?

Dayton is culturally my kind of city – historically and philosophically. It fits my personality. I transplanted here over 20 years ago and it’s always felt like home.

How you normally see Jerrod; a blur and a cocktail in front of you.

Most interesting thing you have seen from behind the bar?

Nakedness.

How has bartending changed in the time you have been in the industry?

Generally, the refocus on quality spirits and ingredients as opposed to synthetic and faux martinis. I think it’s mostly an extension of this generation’s ability to eat better. They also want to drink better!

What do you wish customers knew that helped you do your job?

There’s really no need to start a tab for one drink.

If you were not a bartender, what career would you be pursuing?

Something with plants. Maybe I’d have a greenhouse or something. Don’t really know. I never liked jobs.

This is the bottle that sank a thousand cocktails…

I was eating lunch with a couple other bartenders this week, and I told them that I was working on an article about sour mix. Both of them cringed, no doubt with bottles of sickly yellow, highly processed liquid floating through their head. This has been what most of our parents, and many of us, were used to getting when we asked for a drink that required sour mix at a bar. Long Island Ice Teas, margaritas, Lynchburg Lemonades, so many cocktails that were drenched in this stuff. August 25^th is National Whiskey Sour Day, and the story of sour mix plays into the story of the cocktail quite nicely. It was not always something people would raise their nose at.

“Sours” are a class of cocktails that was been revived with the craft cocktail movement. The first sours were introduced in a book that is on every serious bartender’s bookshelf, How to Mix Drinks, or the Bon Vivant’s Companion, by Jerry Thomas. These cocktails started simply, using only a base spirit (like whiskey), lemon, and simple or “gumme” syrup. This basic recipe was so popular it spawned a wide variety of other cocktails, switching ingredients in and out but maintaining the same basic formula. It became the work horse of the late 19^th century, spawning classics like the sidecar, margarita and daiquiri are all examples of cocktails that are part of this group. Cocktail historian David Wondrich notes it was one of the most popular cocktail types for over a century, especially the whiskey version, from the 1860’s to the Mad Men era of the 1960’s.

Through the 20^th century, two major events happened that sullied the reputation of these fine cocktails. The first was Prohibition, which drove out all of the professional bartenders in the country, and with it all of their knowledge. The second is the development of prepackaged and premade food and drink. We developed into a society that was not going to wait, as well as one that was thrilled with anything new that science could invent. During the 50’s and 60’s, fresh squeezed juices were falling by the wayside in favor of premade juices that would last longer on the shelf. This included cocktail mixers that were easy to pour over a single liquor to make a drink. Who needs all of that tedious squeezing and mixing when you can just pour it out of a bottle? It was faster for bartenders, but it did not taste as good or as fresh. Combine that with a distilling industry that was just getting back into the swing of things, and you had a rough time for cocktails.

THAT…is a lovely whiskey cocktail.

At the beginning of the craft cocktail boom, a seed of hatred was planted into cocktails that used premade mixers. This seed grew, with sour mix and all cocktails made with sour mix: the focus of mixologist’s ire. Their simplicity was disregarded for more complex and exotic flavors. But that simplicity is what originally made this cocktail category, and the whiskey sour itself, so popular. You did not need many ingredients to make it, and the ingredients you did need were easy to get. Because many bars and restaurants are not making cocktails with fresh juices, it is far easier to enjoy these cocktail as they were envisioned about 140 years ago: liquor, some lemon juice, and some simple syrup.

When you are making a sour cocktail, you should keep in mind that the lemon and the simple syrup are going to overpower the liquor you choose. I would never recommend using something like Old Dan Tucker or Kentucky Gentleman, but there is no need to break out the Pappy Van Winkle. A nice Jim Beam or Maker’s Mark would do nicely. If you want a little more spice, you can use a rye whiskey as well.

Whiskey Sour

2 oz. bourbon
.75 oz. lemon juice
1 tsp. simple syrup

Pour all of the ingredients into a cocktail shaker and shake it well. Pour into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a cherry. You can make it look fancier by adding a lemon wedge. You can also enjoy it, as many people do, over ice in a non-chilled glass.

For any bartenders reading, or other cocktail enthusiasts, you may ask “Where is the egg white?” Many people will argue that a tablespoon or two of egg white should go into it, which would give the cocktail a smoother, thicker mouthfeel and add some foam when you shook it with the other ingredients. It is also a potential health hazard. It is disputed whether or not that ingredient should be added, but you may if you wish. Jerry Thomas did not add it, so neither will I.

Whiskey sours, and sours in general, are light and refreshing drinks that are about due for a major comeback. Simpler cocktails are making a comeback, and this is one of the simplest there is. Combine that with the bourbon boom that is happening, and soon the whiskey sour could be back among the most popular cocktails in the country. Ready to start the trend?

Dayton Bar Stars – Jerrod Claytor