It's Heeeeeeeeere...

You have no doubt at this point seen a billboard or a bus with a sign proclaiming Yuengling is coming in fall of 2011. You may have even had a pint of it if you go to one of the many places that offers it on tap, like the Oregon Express, Archer’s Tavern, or Bullwinkle’s. Maybe you have heard the excited whispers of some of your beer loving friends discussing how much they could not wait for it to come to Dayton. And all of them have a friend, family member, friend of a friend, or some runner who brings them a case of Yuengling any time they visit one of the thirteen states it is currently on sale in. The stories make it sound like Yuengling is a banned substance in the state of Ohio, and there is a stiff penalty for possession.

Yuengling does not need to be sold in dark alleys by seedy people. It is one of the better examples of an American lager that is available, and up until this year, Ohio was not one of the thirteen states that you could buy it in. You had to go to Pennsylvania or West Virginia to buy it, as it was mainly sold along the east coast and the South. The company is based in Pottsville, PA, about sixty miles northeast of Harrisburg, and is America’s oldest continuously run brewery. It is also a small brewery, producing two million barrels of beer in a year for the first time in 2010. To put that in perspective, Budweiser produces over one hundred million barrels of beer a year, and has been doing so since the late 90’s. They are very passionate about the product they produce, and will not sell it in an area unless they know they can support the demand for it. That happened in 1996, when they pulled out sales from other states because of too much demand. That is also the company’s main reason for taking so long to get to Ohio. We love our beer, and they were concerned they would not be able to meet demand. In some ways, they were right; Dayton is getting bottled product mid-November because Columbus and Cleveland bought quite a bit more beer than was expected. Cleveland alone bought double what the company projected. In some areas it was triple.

Beer and ice cream...a natural fit.

Yuengling began as a small company in a small town in Pottsville in 1829, when German immigrant David Yuengling started the Eagle Brewery. That brewery burned down in 1831, but David quickly rebuilt it, and kept producing beer. In 1873, when his son Frederick joined the company, he changed the name to D.G. Yuengling and Son. When David passed away in 1899, the brewery was thriving. It was doing so well that Prohibition could not stop it. When the country dried out for thirteen years after the passage of the Eighteenth Amendment, Frederick did two things. The first was starting to brew “near beer” from their Pottsville plant, the only alcoholic beverage that was still legally allowed to be produced in the United States. It was a .5% beer by volume, the equivalent of O’Douls or Sharp’s. Their other venture to help them through was to start producing ice cream. Yes, really. They produced ice cream until 1981, when they finally closed the dairy they opened across the street from their plant. On the day Prohibition was repealed, President Franklin D. Roosevelt received a shipment of Winner Beer from the Yuengling plant as a thank you. This was curious, because the beer takes about three weeks to brew.

The company hummed along nicely, until the 1970’s, when the boom in commercial and mass produced beers came and wiped out or bought up all of the competition. The highlight of that era happened during America’s bicentennial year if 1976; Yuengling became officially registered as America’s Oldest Brewery. Yuengling had a solid base in its home county of Schuykill, and was able to survive nicely on just what the locals were buying. This was not good enough for Dick Yuengling, who took over the company in 1985. He immediately reintroduced the very popular lager that had not been brewed in decades. The beer itself is an amber or copper color, and a little sweeter than the traditional lager. The malt notes assert themselves a little more than the bitter of the hops. The hops add a little bit of a citrus flavor, but it is very, very light. His timing was excellent, as the craft beer movement was just beginning, and people were drifting away from Budweiser and Miller to look for other beers. That beer is the beacon that we are all drawn to, and is part of the reason Yuengling is enjoying a boom. It has been growing in leaps and bounds since he took over, adding several new breweries to expand their distribution area, choosing their path of expansion carefully. Yuengling now accounts for about 1% of beer sales in the United States. They grow slowly, from state to state, to preserve the quality of the beer. This business that has been going since 1829, and the whole family is committed to continuing that tradition. As Jennifer Yuengling, Dick’s daughter, once put it in a story for The Morning Call “This is our family history and there’s no other family in the world that can claim what we have.”

Where it all began.

What will the future hold for Yuengling in Ohio, now that bars have it on tap and stores will soon have bottles to take home? Will it hurt the demand of Yuengling, since part of its popularity was its scarcity in the state? Listening to people discuss it, the opinion seems to be mixed. People who were familiar with the brew before it was widely available are excited that they can now go out and get it on tap, or bring home a six pack of it. People who had not tried it before are a bit more puzzled. They do not see what all of the hype was about, and have consigned it to the pack with other lager beers. Maybe the hype has hurt the spread a little, raising the bar a little too high for the Pennsylvania lager. Its rabid fan base will make sure that they keep the beer popular in Dayton, and the bars that have it now are making sure people know about it. The bars that have it on tap have benefitted from the initial release at the end of October. Next week, retailers and bars that have it by the bottle will see people coming in and buying out the available stock, checking out this beer with the almost contraband reputation to it. Cheers!

That...is a lot of beer to carry.

Seasonal beers are a blessing. Many craft beer companies have their own schedule of seasonal beers, ones that pair flavors and brewing styles with appropriate times of the year. Christmas ales full of cinnamon and nutmeg, Irish Red brews around St. Patrick’s Day, and a summer full of citrus, honey, and refreshment. Fall is now here, when we all turn to earthier flavors. We look at spices, apples, pecans, and of course, pumpkins. But, there is another style of beer that becomes very popular at this time of year, because of a very large festival in Germany. Oktoberfest is a festival that lasts around two weeks, beginning in mid-September and ending in the first few days of October. And for this fine festival, a special brew called a Märzen is brought out and enjoyed by the masses.

On October 12^th, 1810, Prince Ludwig was married to Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen. There was a festival planned that day for all of Bavaria, and that festival included parades, horse races, drinking, and food. The festival grounds were renamed Theresienwiese (Therese’s Field, now known as Wies’n) in her honor, and the festival was a smash hit. However, an event like Oktoberfest is not made in one year. Due to the popularity of the festival, it was repeated at about the same time in 1811. This time, however, an agricultural festival was included. As time has progressed, the beer tents became beer halls (1896), and amusements, from carousels to bowling alleys, were added to make each year bigger and better. By the 1960’s the horse races were all but over, occurring once every three years or so. But, the festival itself had become the juggernaut that we all know and love, making us familiar with beer steins and lederhosen. It has become a celebration of German culture in the United States, where we borrow many of the similar tradition for our much shorter festivals.

Ayinger, an excellent example of a Maerzen

Food and beer are the big reasons so many people attend Oktoberfests throughout the country. Initially, the October celebrations had less to do with a parade and a royal family, and more to do with a specific kind of beer. Before refrigeration, it was very hard to brew a good beer during the summer. In March (the German translation of the month being März), brewers would make a mad rush to brew as much beer as they could to drink and sell over the summer months. It was a very malty, darker beer, with a little more hops in it as a preservative. It was kept in storage in caves – lagered, as they put it – which increased the richness of the flavor as well as the content of the alcohol. When October came around again, and it was safer (and legal) to brew beer again, any beer that was not sold or used had to be consumed to empty the barrels. This beer was called Märzen, and it had a little more kick (6 to 8% ABV) and flavor than typically enjoyed. This beer became incorporated into the festival, and also became a reason to make sure the Red Cross was always on hand. Since most people are used to drinking lower strength beer, they drink as much Märzen at Oktoberfest as they do during a regular night out. With the higher strength of the brew, more people get drunk and pass out, so many in fact that the Germans developed a name for them, the Bierleichen, or “beer corpses”. Not only is there beer, but there is a wide range of food available, from any of the wursts you can think of, to German pastries like strudels and plum cake (Zwetschgenkuchen), and many, many ways to eat potatoes and sauerkraut.

One of the reasons it took Oktoberfest so long to pick up speed was the number of interruptions it suffered in the early years of its existence. Not three years after the festival started, it had to be cancelled because of the Napoleonic War. It was cancelled outright nineteen times for a variety of reasons, twice for cholera outbreaks in the region, and multiple times for a variety of wars, including World Wars I and II. In the years following World War I, it was cancelled due to hyperinflation of the Deutschmark, where people were taking wheelbarrows of cash to buy bread and milk. In the years after some wars, it was not cancelled, but scaled back to a smaller “Fall Festival”. After each interruption the festival came back with greater strength, new tents, and more entertainment for the masses. Dire events could make give the festival a break, or a smaller scale, but the festival was popular enough to come back stronger after each upheaval.

This weekend Dayton celebrates Oktoberfest at the Dayton Art Institute, September 24^th and 25^th, 2011. While it is considerably shorter than the sixteen days they celebrate in Munich, it will be just as festive. A wide variety of beers will be available, such as Wiehenstephaner (one of the oldest breweries in the world) and Warsteiner from Germany, a wide variety of Oktoberfest beers from Harpoon, Great Lakes Brewing Company, Leinenkugel, and Spaten, was well as other local favorites. The food will be plentiful, the music will span from polkas to jazz, and there will even be a home brew contest to add more unique flavors. From a simple wedding ceremony on a lawn in front of a palace to a celebration that draws over six million people from around the world and spawned similar celebrations in cities globally, Oktoberfest has grown in size and scale. Step out this weekend and enjoy the variety, the atmosphere, and the tradition of a festival that has been two centuries in the making. Prost!

Mmmmm...beer

September 7^th is National Beer Lover’s Day, and we are living in a golden age of beer. The whole industry has evolved a great deal in the last thirty years, from a time when the market was dominated by lager beers and the craft beer industry was limited. There were a few notable craft exceptions, such as Yuengling and Anchor Steam, but Sam Adams was a long way off. Craft breweries are now growing at an astounding rate, with 725 being in development as of June of this year, and volume of craft beer brewed has grown 14% through the first half of this year.  That growth shows no sign of stopping as American craft brewers are exploring different flavors (21^st Amendment’s Hell or High Watermelon is a good example) and styles (Dogfish Head revived classic brews through their Ancient Ale series).

The mainstream brewers have been feeling the heat. While they still have a very comfortable share of the overall beer market (Anheuser-Busch ImBev has 53% of it in the U.S.), they recognize the need to diversify their portfolio of beers to adapt to the growth of the craft beer market and the shifting tastes of consumers. Budweiser’s recent acquisition of Goose Island (some feel a reaction to Miller purchasing Leinenkugel’s) shows the power of the craft beer movement. Budweiser went out of their way to ensure the public that Goose Island will still be run in the same way, just with the resources of Anheuser-Busch ImBev behind it.

Beer, in its purest form, can be made with just four ingredients: malted barley, water, yeast, and hops. This was the basis of the Reinheitsgebot, or German Beer Purity Law, one of the first laws dealing with the production of liquor. The staggering number of beers that are available are made with these simple ingredients, prepared in a variety of ways, and in some cases with extra elements and flavors added to the brewing process. That same variety can be broken down into two different overall styles of beer: lagers and ales. All beers, for the most part, fall into one of these two very broad categories.

Lager can only be enjoyed by people with curly moustaches

Lager – This is the most popular beer style in the United States. When you go to a Kroger or Meijer for a beer run, the bulk of the beer that you see are lager beers. From Molson Canadian to Budweiser to Dos Equis, lager beers have a broad range of tastes and flavors. Lager beers are bottom fermenting, which means that the yeast sits at the bottom of the vessel the beer is being fermented in. They also ferment slowly, which means they have to be stored for a while before they are ready for consumption. Lager beers were stored in caves or cellars, developing a beer that is ideally fermented at 40 – 50 degrees Fahrenheit. “Lager” comes from the German word for “store” or “camp”, and that is what the beer does. Most of the lagers you find will contain barley, water, hops, yeast, and rice or corn.  It is the rice and corn that many people who love beer will take exception to. They are both used as fillers, which do not add flavor to the beer, and make the beer a little thinner in the mouth. The rice and corn do add some sugar to the brew for the yeast to grab on to, which increases the alcohol content. Most lagers are in the 5% alcohol by volume (ABV) range, but can get as high as 14%. Lagers strive for consistent and milder flavor.

Ales – Ales are very English, and everything that lagers are not. Ale historically was differentiated from beer by the fact that it did not use hops during the brewing process. Hops were later added to offset the sweetness that is imparted by the malted barley, and they have been used for that purpose ever since.  Not only do the hops add some balance in flavor, they also preserve the beer. Ales are top fermenting, which means the yeast rises to the top and ferments there, becoming part of the foam at the top of the vessel. Ales are fermented at higher temperature, usually between 60 – 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They ferment very quickly at such high temperatures, which make them a little more volatile and full bodied in terms of flavor. Brewed at too high a temperature, it will release other flavors that may be unintended by the brewer.  Most of the ales you will find are pale ales, such as Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Great Lakes Brewing Company Burning River. Budweiser American Ale is one of the more full bodied ales at your local grocer. Ales range from 3% to 8% ABV, with styles that can go somewhat higher. Ales have a fuller flavor profile, from sweet with more malt or spicier or bitter with more hops. They can also be served at closer to room temperature with little loss of flavor.

The following beer types fall under one of the major styles. You can easily find any of these types in your local grocery store.

India Pale Ale (IPA) – India Pale Ales have been booming in the stores, with most craft breweries creating this intensely flavorful style of beer. Magic Hat’s 9 Hex IPA, Moerlein’s Northern Liberties IPA (from Cincinnati), and Great Lakes Brewing Company Commodore Perry are more popular versions of this type of ale. IPAs were created when English brewers needed to move vast amounts of ale from England to India. The traditional ales Englishmen enjoyed would spoil on the long journey, giving the men there a bad beer to drink. It was discovered that hops helped to preserve the freshness of the beer on the long journey, so the new ales they brewed has higher levels of hops and malt in them, but the hops usually won out. IPAs have a very bitter character to them, depending on the amount of hops in the brew. American IPAs have a little bit more of a grapefruit or citrus note, due to the type of hops that we grow in America. This is a beer style for someone looking for bold flavors with a little more kick, since many IPAs are 6 – 9% ABV.

Hoegaarden's special glass

Witbier – When you are looking for a witbier (“white beer”), look no further than Coor’s Blue Moon for a very popular example of this type of ale. Anheuser-Busch’s Shock Top and Hoegaarden’s Original White Ale are also great examples of this style, made popular in Belgium and Germany. These ales are typically cloudy and light in appearance, due to the use of unfiltered wheat from the brewing process being in the container. Witbier’s flavors come from not only the wheat and high level of carbonation, but also the coriander, orange peel, and other spices that are added during fermentation. Many people like to drink these beers with either an orange or lemon, but that can obscure some of the more subtle flavors. Hoegaarden has even developed its own glass in which to enjoy their beer best. Witbiers are typically 4 – 6% ABV, but some of them can get as high as 10%.

Stouts – Before the barley is malted (allowed to germinate a little before it is stopped, which helps release the sugars for fermenting), it is roasted, which gives the beer a much darker color and deeper, richer flavor. That rich, roasted flavor is often enhanced in American stouts through the addition of chocolate or coffee flavors, sometimes hops are also added to enrich the flavors. These ales are deep brown or brownish red, reflecting the roasted quality of the barley used. The phrase “stout” and “porter” are often used interchangeably, though porters use different types of malts and aren’t always roasted. The most famous stout in the U.S. is Guinness, but many craft brewers also offer their own stouts, like Mt. Carmel Stout. Stouts usually do not have a great deal of sugars in them while they are fermenting, which often lead to lower ABVs in the 4 – 7% range. However, some stouts can get as high as 10 % ABV.

All of the types of beer mentioned above can be found at your local grocery, as can all of the beers mentioned. These five styles and types are the most popular I found at the stores I went to, but by no means is a complete list of beers. If you are looking to expand your palate with expert guidance, there are a few great places to do so. The Trolley Stop in the Oregon District has a beer tasting for $20 on the first Wednesday of every month. Nine tastes of beer, plus a great education on beer styles and how to taste. Archer’s Tavern cracks open a new craft beer keg every Wednesday night at 5 PM, and offer a great menu to boot. Arrow Wine also has a beer tasting from 5 to 7 PM every Friday night, offering five beer samples to start your weekend off right. Celebrate the day by checking out a new beer, or enjoying one of your favorites at your local bar. Cheers!